Union Square and the Mission District

Wednesday morning we were up at a reasonable time and headed off to the BART in 24C sunny clear weather, heading for Union Square. Amazing mix of retail stores and top end brands surround the Square, along with a mix of sloppily dresses tourists and well dressed workers. We find a little lane way, 'Maiden Lane' and surprising for the US, a self serve diner. This just means you line up to order at the counter, just like home. No greeter, table waitress or any of the other staff usually found in a US diner/restaurant. Also surprising was the excellent array of fresh salads, which we dutifully had for lunch, along with a fantastic Chardonnay. Lady P had booked a sourdough bread making class in the Mission District, which is a BART ride and long walk from Union Square so off we head, many hours in advance. The change in architecture and socioeconomic status between downtown SF and the Mission is striking. The Mission is still largely a Hispanic/working class area with litter and chewing gum all over the street, but every now and then, along certain streets, you come across the urban hipster renovating delightful cottages and townhouses, or opening a weird restaurant, dress shop or gallery. The nrmal folk complain that the Mission is becoming too expensive to live. Flashman and the Major are determined to check this out this afternoon while Lady P is in the bakery. After marching all over the Mission, from 16th to 24th Street discovering the infamous 'Murals of the Mission District' and then walking 

another 10 blocks south, we find the sourdough class in the back of a bakery. On the way, Lady P requires sustenance in the form of a famous strawberry balsamic and peanut butter soft serve ice cream and the lads partake in a cold beer in a local oyster bar. Having deposited Lady P safely in the bakery, Flashy and the Major discover a bar across the road. What a surprise. The area looks a bit dodgy - like the Cross or St Kilda on a bad day, so refuge in a bar seems a good choice. The 'Blind Cat' is our first stop and it delivers cheap cold beer and friendly staff. On emerging back onto the street, the area seems less downbeat so we enter 'Pops Bar' where a SF taxi driver engages the Major in a long political conversation. Thoroughly refreshed, we emerge into the twilight thinking the Mission is OK after all. Lady P is has perfected the art of sour dough starters and is armed with a container of genuine San Francisco 6.5 year old starter and some freshly baked flat bread - delicious. Back on the BART to our cottage in Berkeley and up the hill to our local restaurant area for a very good Italian meal, including a bottle of Proseco and a decent Californian red.